fly through
The None Yama-Kaido is a 44km-long mountain trail that dissects the Muroto Cape, the southeastern corner of Shikoku from east to south. Heading south from Tokushima on route 55, cross the border into Kochi Prefecture and pass Shikoku’s surfing Mecca, Ikumi Beach in ToyoTown. At the small fishing town of None turn inland onto route 493 at the mouth of the None River. After 8km of steep ascent the road comes to a forested pass where the trailhead and public toilets are located.
The little known history of the trail dates back some 1500 years to the Yamato era when it was a publicly funded and maintained road. Its history includes the sorrowful tale of exile of the former emperor, Tsuchimikado (reign 1198-1210) and the domination of Shikoku by the Tosa (Kochi) samurai, Chosokabe Motochika during the Tensho period (1573-1592).
During the Edo Period (1603-1867) extravagant processions of feudal lords traveling to Edo (Tokyo) passed along the road. (The shogun maintained control over the country by forcing the lords to alternate with their families in residing in Edo.) As the feudal system began to disintegrate at the end of the Edo Period the road became an escape route for fleeing samurai, such as the group of 23 led by Kiyooka Michinosuke who ensconced themselves on Mt None. (Their descendants most likely reside now in the town of None.)
The road’s colourful history and folklore also includes the story of a courageous messenger who fought off a wolf to protect a pregnant lady, the sad tale of a border guard’s daughter who could not pass to meet her lover, a mysterious laughing hemlock (pine) tree and the giant ‘Yado’ cedar with a circumference of 16.6 metres and a hollow the size of four and a half tatami mats, large enough for 4 or 5 travelers to rest.
dawn inspiration
There was not a soul around (or so I thought) as I set off from the trailhead at Shirogane Pass (四郎ヶ野峠) to explore the None Yama-Kaido. Soon after hitting the trail though the silence was broken by the buzz of chainsaws from loggers starting work on the partially decimated mountainside opposite the trailhead. Ascending deeper and deeper into the forest, the buzz soon became inaudible, replaced by the regular drone of passing planes and the tweeting of birds in the treetops.
The first signboard of many along the trail is at the Hanaore Pass (花折峠). Until the later stage of the Edo Period a former trail led from here via Bettchaku to None but in 1840 this was lost after a giant landslide. Along this trail was a steep slope known either as Hachou or Hanaore Slope. Hachou is a term that refers to difficulty in breathing from exertion (as in laboring uphill at the 8th stage of the Mt Fuji ascent). The Hanaore name origin comes from an elevated perspective; lords riding in carriages up this steep slope could reach out to break off flowers growing along the side of the trail.
A little further along the trail is a sign for Godai-no-tsue (五代の崩), explaining that this is the name given to the damage from the giant landslide of the Bettchaku River in 1840. The destruction from this slide is said to have extended 4km in all directions. The course of the None Yama-kaido has been altered numerous times due to landslides.
the trailhead
The next sign along the trail tells the tale of Kiyosuke Jizo (清助地蔵). Long ago in Nakamura village in None lived a poor peasant by the name of Kiyosuke. One night in his dreams Kobo Daishi came to him, preaching about various matters. Inspired, Kiyosuke became a follower of Daishi and carved a Jizo statue from the root of a cedar tree, placing it at a difficult point on the None Yama-kaido trail; Jizo being a protector of travelers. Miracles associated with the Jizo led to an increase in pilgrims visiting and the statue became known as Kiyosuke Jizo. Being made of wood however it naturally decayed and was lost. Nobody any longer knows of this Jizo statue.
After a considerable ascent from the trailhead the trail levels out at the First Gate (Ichi no mon, 一の門). The altitude here is 923 metres. This spot also marks the beginning of a trail that leads to Kuwanoki (桑ノ木) in the back area of Sakigahama town (佐喜浜), further south of None on the Muroto Cape.
forest glow
Much like the World Hertitage trail, the Kumano Kaido in Wakayama Prefecture, there are remnants of numerous teahouses scattered along the None Yama-Kaido. A sign for the Steps of Kono Teahouse (小野御茶屋の段) explains that these houses were resting places for daimyo (feudal lord) processions and so forth, that had open areas where it was possible for large groups (hundreds of people) to rest. The local peasants were forced to maintain the trail and rest areas. They also had to shoulder the palanquins (carriages) of the nobles (and you thought your pack was heavy!), as well as carrying their belongings and acting as messengers.
As the forest gradates and towering cedars begin to appear, there is a sign for Gorizuka( 五里塚). Starting from Nahari, the trail was marked with a mound every ‘ri’ (里), a former unit of distance measuring 2.44 miles or around 4km. This point marked the 5th mound; in other words it’s still another 20km (or thereabouts) to Nahari.
Jizo dude
Apart from the signs imparting the history of the None Yama-Kiado, there are numerous ‘Shikoku no michi (四国の道) signs along the trail. (You’ll find these all over Shikoku.) There are also frequent signs warning against littering. These seem to have had an effect as the trail is impeccably clean.
After Gorizuka, 6.6km out from the trailhead at Shirogane Pass the trail comes to Jizo Pass (地蔵峠). This mountain pass was formerly known as Senbon Pass (Thousand Trees Pass) as thousands of giant cedar trees once stood here. While nearby mountainsides are systematically cleared (more chopsticks and toothpicks!), some of these majestic trees fortunately remain though certainly not nearly as many. In 1832 with the enshrinement of a Buddhist Jizo statue at the pass, its name was altered to JizoPass.
see the sea
A little further on from Jizo Pass the forest becomes thinner allowing a spectacular view over the mountains to the Pacific Ocean. With a strained knee ligament and time getting away from me, I made this my turnaround point. Another couple of kilometers further is Iwasasekisho (岩佐関所) sign-marked as the main destination from the trailhead, a distance of 8.9km. It is also possible to access this locale by car (4WD). From route 493 turn onto a dirt road some 100m upstream from the Futamata Bridge (二又橋). After about half an hour of driving you’ll come to a gate blocking the road. From here it’s about a 20-minute hike uphill to Iwasasekisho.
Being located so far south, the None Yama-Kaido offers comfortable hiking all year round. The trail is well maintained and marked, making it easy to navigate. Whether you walk just part of the trail or take on the challenge of completing the whole course, you’ll enjoy the solitude and serenity of this historic trail deep in the mountains of Shikoku’s famous Cape Muroto.
